Wax slugs for Zombie Defense

*Reposted from zombiehunters.org forum*

I figured it’s been a long time since I posted something useful, so I’ll write it here and then post it over to that blog I rarely use.

I follow a lot of youtube channels. Being some sort of idiot savant when it comes to visual learning, I catch as much as I can over there… and a while back I came across IraqVeteran8888’s videos on wax slugs. Since then there’s been a significant amount of testing on them and I’m very impressed with them. It’s effectively a home made frangible 12 gauge slug. It’s highly effective within 20 yards (home defense/ last mile against Zeds) and can be accurate out to 50+ yards. It’s got the ballistics of a bad wadcutter though so I think beyond 50, you’re really REALLY pushing it. Before we get too heavy into these, let me explain what they are.

A wax slug is created by taking a shotgun shell of whatever type you have and cutting the top off. After you cut the top off, you then pour out the shot into melted gulf wax or crayons (which are also a higher temp type of wax – very important; more later). Melt down the wax using a low heat double boiler or electric heater built for wax warming and mix it with the shot. Then take the wax-covered shot and pour it back into the shell. Fill it up and cap it off. Let it harden and voila, a wax slug. You can use various forms of shot but my experience has shown #7.5-9 works best. The smaller stuff has less of a tendency to tear apart the slug with it’s own weight and retain MOST of the pellets. #4 works… but not very well. You can use a ‘dog turd’ method to moderate success (I’ll link the vid to Dave Canterbury’s instructional on it). 

Now initially the idea came about as a response to the dangerous ‘cut shells’ which can cause pressure spikes which are bad, mmmkay? A pressure spike is, as my brother in law put it “When things get all explodey”. You don’t want to see a pressure spike – I’ve seen those as well (hooray for years of shooting black powder competitively! Shoutout to other N-SSA shooters). It’s SH*T YOUR PANTS SCARY. Bolded for emphasis because well, it needs it.

So some of you, who are reloaders, are probably wondering how in the world this is safe. After all, you’re adjusting the weight of shot sent downrange. Well, the truth is that you’ll actually end up loading slightly LESS shot and the weight of the wax is insufficient to change the weight of the shot in any significant way. If some math geek wants to double check my work and fix my errors, I’ll PM it to you (yes, I actually sat down and figured out weight per volume of shot, wax, etc).

All that said, this shot is nothing short of a miracle round. There, I said it. A miracle round. Why? There are several factors so let me go over them briefly:

1) Cost. These things are dirt cheap to make and a far cry from the cost of a foster slug or pumpkin ball.
2) Range. Increases the effective range of birdshot to beyond spitting distance by a wide margin.
3) Material destruction. Due to the nature of the matrix of shot retaining until impact, it causes a sort of bucky-ball type explosive effect which also propels some of the shot forward. Remember that trick where you took two nickels and placed them together, then hit one in the back and the one in the middle stayed but the one in front moved? It’s like that, only with lots of little lead pellets. 
4) Frangible. Unlike most crappy frangible pistol rounds, this actually does as advertised. It won’t overpenetrate walls but causes unreal destruction to tissue and bone. After one barrier it begins to break apart and act as a standard shot load. 
5) Cool colors. That’s right. Aesthetics. If you want a fancy neon green round melt some crayons. Tactical black? There’s that too. Crayola has you covered.

1) I wouldn’t take these to somewhere pushing over 120 degrees. Sorry desert dwellers.
2) It’s not a real slug, so penetration is less, though still very good.
3) Range is less than a real slug in real world tests. Yes, they will sometimes go out as far as 100 yards, but don’t bet on it being a reliable thing.
4) You end up spending more in ammo because it’s so damned fun to shoot things with.

Now let’s cut to the chase. These things effectively act as miniature grenades when shot – I think when you see the damage you’ll agree with me. They retain their mass until they get inside and then blow all of the shot forward in a cone. It’s nasty in a way that can only be understood with… well movies :)

The most relevant vid in terms of real world effectiveness – wax slug vs a hogs head:

Now by comparison… here’s a 357 hollowpoint into a hogs head by the same guy. 

Note the straight channel cutting right through, a neat little hole. THIS IS WHAT MOST BULLETS DO. Now go back to the first video with the wax slug – that’s not a temporary cavity it made. That’s a PERMANENT cavity. Considering our undead ‘friends’ will need headshots and will most likely be functioning off the brain stem only (meaning a brain stem shot will be the only SURE stop), I think you’ll agree this is a highly effective solution to the coming zombie menace.

And some more videos for your pleasure/edification:
What started it for me:

How he makes them:

Dave canterbury’s vid on wax slugs where he makes the dog turd method:
Note: you can see he’s using larger shot and it’s breaking apart.

How wax slugs work (youtube physics):

Wax slug playlist of destruction – pure ownage of everything
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=InbyFtvH … 9E7FF1FCCE

Ballistics gel vs wax slug (holy mother of god)

Brassfetcher’s Cut shell ballistic gel test (showing how the shot reacts poorly and gets nearly zero penetration):

Will it feed?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vlwodejs … ploademail

PS on the wax thing: Different waxes have different melt points. Lower grade paraffin comes apart and will not retain the shot; while I cannot say I’ve used beeswax (the hardest and highest melt point) I would expect it might actually end up being too brittle. Personal experience with various waxes when making bullet lubes for black powder have shown me that gulf wax and or crayons have about the same melt point. They also generally have the same consistency and so far have worked for retaining about 95% of the shot. Usually you get a few flyers but for the most part, it stays together – why fix what’s not broke right?


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